I
hope you all liked my blog so far and I thank you all for being such a great
audience, so without further ado let’s talk about the theme look and style of
kalamkari.
So,
in earlier times where, folk singers used to travel from one village to another
narrating stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata to the village people. In course of
time narrating stories slowly transformed into painting, giving way to a new
art form called Kalamkari. This ancient style of hand painting on textiles
using a kalamkari pen is primarily done in Srikalahasti and has come a long
way. Different motifs like flowers, peacock, and paisleys were usually done on
kalamkari sarees. Basic inspiration was from historical architecture, forts and
temples. Presently wall panels, dupattas (stole), sarees and wall hangings are
made. Kalamkari artists have absolute freedom for individual expression while
painting; no two products are the same unless it is customer’s request.
One of
kind qualities of kalamkari painting is all about the vibrant colors used and
no shading is done.
Intricate detailing is given to each product. Different
stories and scenes of Hindu mythology are revealed as a series in dupattas and
sarees. Kalamkari can be done on any material unlike olden days where only
cotton was used. Silk, Tussar, Chiffon, Georgette are some of the different
materials where kalamkari painting can be done. Running designs are currently
popular in Srikalahasti as people ask for new varieties in products so
kalamkari artists have evolved from time to meet the customer’s demands.
However Kalamkari has been present for many generations and the ancient
technique of vegetable dyes are used, the craft totally depends upon natural
vegetable dyes and nearby riverbanks. Kalamkari is a labor intensive work as a
simple patterned sarees can take up to 20 days to complete and is washed 4
different times. Weather conditions matters a lot in kalamkari as rain water
can ruin the outlines in the fabric where as high temperatures can make the
colors spread.
The
borders of the murals and textiles of Srikalahasti have stylistic similarities.
describes the composition of the borders found at Srikalahasti— “The external
border displays a lotus, or a ‘cartwheel’ design, followed by a thin band,
another most popular motif used in kalamkari is the “TREE OF LIFE” this art
requires a lot of sunlight as these paintings can only be dried only under the
sunlight. The designs of the richly executed drapery of the figures have
stylistic similarities with the textiles of Machilipatnam. Furthermore, the
designs of creepers and diamond shaped lattices with floral motifs and Persian
motifs can only be achieved with block prints. Woven textiles, which are
comparatively more expensive than block-printed ones, are also identifiable in
some cases, especially in the costumes of the royalty depicted in the
paintings.
The
color pattern used in kalamkari is unique and follows different themes. This is
one of the main features of srikalahasti style of kalamkari art. Women figure
are always depicted using yellow color, gods in blue and demons in red and
green .the the backgrounds are generally red motif of lotus the most common
theme followed in kalamkari is religion exhibiting magnificent painting of sun chariot famous
deities and scenes from great epics- Ramayana Mahabharata and great Indian
mythological classics.Bed
covers, curtains and other home furnishing are mostly designed using the
machilipatnam style of kalamkari art with more of the Parisian motifs, creepers
and flora using subtle Persian colors
This
is what I know and researched about theme look and style of kalamkari. Next
I’ll be talking about developing association and case study of a designer who
used kalamkari in his/hers designs.
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